I have a new favorite National Park. I had always given Zion National Park first place until this summer, when we went to Glacier in July. We loved it, and so did the other three million people who visited it last year, which puts it firmly in the “over loved” category.
One of the many reasons could be the last chance to see the glaciers for which the park is named. Climate change is tragically evident, as photos from 75 years ago are paired with current photos and tell the sad tale. The more obvious draw is the spectacular scenery, and the opportunity to traverse the stunning “Going to the Sun Road”.
The park was established in 1910, and visitors were able to access it through the Great Northern Railway. The owners of the railroad were visionary, and with an eye towards the profitability of attracting visitors, two luxury hotels were built from 1913 to 1915 with Swiss chalet architecture.
The park itself was only navigable with a few roads, and horses and donkeys were the main source of transportation. Then in 1921, Congress authorized the building of a road to traverse the park. Although it was officially opened in 1933, the entire process lasted almost 30 years.
It has rightly been called “The Most Beautiful Road in America”. It is the only road that winds through the entire park, climbing over the Continental Divide, and providing numerous trailheads for hiking. Along its 50 miles are stunning vistas, waterfalls, tumbling streams, and of course, the remnants of the glaciers. It is opened only a few months of the year.
June is typically the month when huge snow moving equipment clear the road, parts of which can be covered by over 80 feet of snow. That means that the road is completely open only from mid June to October.
Now for the unfortunate aspect of this beloved park. With the short time period that the road is open, all the people who want to experience this wonderful place descend during these months. Since the road is narrow with steep drop-offs and twists and turns, there are few places for cars to park.
The parking areas that exist are full, typically before 8 in the morning. One morning we were positioned before 8 a.m. with walking sticks and a packed lunch to enjoy one of the park’s most popular hikes. We ended up parking a mile up the road from the trailhead, and considered ourselves lucky to find a spot. There is a park shuttle system which seems to be overloaded, and an expensive alternative, a private transportation system called the “Red Bus Tours”, which we would probably book if we came back.
Touring the park requires advance planning and a steep learning curve. However, please don’t be discouraged. Just plan carefully, and if you are not constrained by your children’s summer vacations, go in September, when the weather is still agreeable, and the park is less crowded.
There are many accommodations in Kalispell and Whitefish, convenient to the airport, and around 30 minutes from the West Gate park entrance. Both are towns with a resort atmosphere and upscale restaurants and shops to provide diversion when tired legs need a break. If you are able, put it on your list.
The park belongs to us, and is a magnificent example of “America”s Best Idea”.
Judy Bereza is a retired interior designer/kitchen expert, constant walker and “Nana” to five adorable grand children. With friends she has hiked in Wales, Cornwall, Switzerland, Smokey Mountain National Park, Ireland and California.
Occasionally she veers off the trail to explore a different kind of travel adventure that includes her husband..