It was hard not to stare at the women flashing their jet black toothy smiles. Blackening one’s teeth was of the most fascinating customs I saw in the craggy, misty mountainous area of Vietnam. This post was originally published 2013.
Practiced by the ladies of the Black Hmong tribe who live in the mountain regions near the Chinese border, blackening teeth speaks to the isolation and remoteness of these people in a country speeding pell mell towards modernization.
The Black Hmongs are one of fifty tribes living in this gorgeous, Swiss alps type area far from the cities. Others are Red Dao, Flower Hmong, Tay, Dao and more.
When our guide, Hoang Ha Van, asked if we’d like to see this, I, of course, was fascinated. Why would they do this? And how?
The 2000-year-old beauty secret is based on the belief that that only wild animals and demons have white teeth. The blackening of the teeth, was an assurance that one would not be mistaken for an evil spirit. Women with blackened teeth are seen as beautiful. At this point it is only the elderly women who continue the tradition.
To get to the remote village, we traveled on narrow roads over some of the highest mountains in Asia, gazing at mazes of terraced rice paddies when we could see them. We visited North Vietnam in the winter when white out conditions occurred due to fog and low lying clouds.Water buffaloes hold up traffic along the region’s developing – though still very rough – network of roads.
Once at the village, Hoang leads us to a home on stilts. I have trouble navigating the narrow steps up and into the dark space while admiring the agility of the residents much older than I am. Once inside, I could see the animals below us through the slats of wood and wondered if the thin boards would hold us. We are much larger than the local people.
We were introduced to a lovely older woman sitting in the kitchen area of the home. She happily demonstrated to us how she made the betal juice mixture and applied to her teeth creating a black lustrous shine.
Fascinating huh? Really shows how different our cultures are and yet at the end of the day, we all want to be attractive.
I found the people in this region of Vietnam with many small villages of minority tribes compelling. While I loved seeing how people live and shop and go to school (see previous blog posts) what haunts me are the faces of the members of the communities we visited.
The tough lives, the beautiful spirits, the simple and the complex. It all shows in the faces…..I share some of them here.
Comments
6 CommentsKathy
Apr 30, 2013Fascinating article with stunning pictures of people of all ages. Blackening your teeth for beauty was a new concept to me!!
Margaret
Apr 30, 2013What a fascinating concept with the blackening of the teeth to ward off evil spirits! I love the fact that you went into the back country areas of Vietnam. You see so much more than touring by buses in groups. Many of your experiences I can relate to because of my travels in Bhutan where we, too, went into houses where the animals lived on the first level and where we enjoyed afternoon tea made in kettles which were set in the fire right in the middle of the living room floor. I’ll always carry these memories with me, as I know you and Jack will, too.
marianne miller
May 12, 2013Fabulous “people shots” ..I loved the smiles and the faces…your photography and your adventurous spirit is so worth following
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Bente Petersen
Jul 21, 2019Dear Susan, beautiful people … inside and outside… thank you for your photos and comments. I worked off and on in Northern Viet Nam for 9 years helping doctors with handling the huge problem with people poisoned by Agent Orange Dioxin…. in one of the smaller towns I met a woman with blackened teeth… she said she did it for beauty but also to preserve her teeth… right now I am reading about the Yangtze River and in southern China it runs through gorges where people have lived for thousands of years… their tradition is (also) to blacked theur teeth !!! … Thanks a gain for writing so well …
Susan J. Smith
Jul 22, 2019Thank you so much for your lovely comment. Our experience in the north part of Viet Nam was one of the most memorable of my travel experiences. It was an honor to be invited into homes to share in their culture. We also had a very special experience visiting a school.