Oaxaca, Mexico

A highlight of a recent trip to Oaxaca, Mexico I enjoyed sitting in the pleasant breakfast room in a hotel right on the main pedestrian street and hearing the sound of a tuba in the distance. 

I was there on a Photo Workshop to photograph the Day of the Dead festivities. The sounds of the tuba heralded photo opportunities.

Members of our group would stand up, gather our gear and head to the street, leaving the wait staff a bit confused by the half eaten breakfasts. Soon they learned that this would be normal. We’d come back to finish. 

Comparsa

What were we heading out to see?  A comparsa which is  a version of a parade, typical of Day of the Dead. The group heading towards us was made up of a band with the tuba with the pulsating beat rhythm and tune. Depending on the make up of the group, the participants would be in costume, there might be people on stilts, and they’re surround with folks enjoying the festivities.

Comparsa’s seem to happen day and night through out the week prior to the actual Day of the Dead.  

What made it different from your typical parade is that the comparsa group would stop every block or so and dance. Yep. Block the walkways and even cars on the street with their joyous revelry. No one minded. I enjoyed capturing images of  the children dressed for good times. 

Party with a Heart

It was glorious fun sometimes referred to as a Party with Heart. 

But let’s back up to what is Day of the Dead or Die de los Muetos is. It  goes back to ancient times when the indigenous people believed that the spirits of the dead come back to visit the living on earth. 

When the Spaniards arrived in the 1500s they attempted to wipe out many of these kinds of traditions, but Day of the Dead survived and has somehow fused with all Saints Day in the Catholic tradition. 

What is a bit confusing to me is that I learned that it is celebrated on November 1 and 2, but one village nearby elected to hold their festivities on November 3. We saw  flamboyant decor, face painting, costumes and dancing three or four days ahead of the official day, sometimes merging and fusing with Halloween. 

Oaxaca is the best place to see it because this is where the practice originated and there are many indigenous people in this part of Mexico who celebrate with abandon. 

Ofrenda

In addition to forming comparsas, the people erect alters with items representing the diseased person. Called Offends, they are supposed to help draw the spirit back. The marigolds are critical element.Their strong scent is believed to help entice the spirits to come around . 

And a huge part of Day of the Dead is the activity at the cemeteries.  People decorate the grave sites of their loved ones and then sit nearby thinking of their special person. Parties develop. 

Special foods are prepared including a bread, widely enjoyed. 

Sometimes there are bands or other forms of music and in many cases Mescal. I experienced complete strangers sharing a wee bit of Mescal with me. 

I don’t speak Spanish but if I could I would have asked questions and learned about the diseased person who is being celebrated. My sense is that everyone had a story to tell. 

Come back for more about the Day of the Dead. I plan to share the reasons behind the Skeletons and the Katrina character.  Face painting too. I’ll post lots of images, of course. 

Yep, the front of this building is covered with marigolds.

Here’s a link to a blog post I did several years ago about Day of the Dead. 

And if you want to learn more, watch Disney movie called Coco.